The Secrets of Citrus

Whether it’s a slice of lemon or a spoonful of orange glyko, no Cypriot table is complete without the presence of citrus fruit. Yet beyond the kitchen, the cultivation of these natural gems is embedded in the island’s culture and history.

Originally from Southern Asia, reports of citrus fruit in Cyprus date back to the Roman Empire when these exotic delicacies were sought-after by the aristocracy. The name “citrus” stems from the ancient Greek word kedros [cedar] as historians claim that there are similarities between the scent of citrus leaves with that of the cedar tree.

Together with the potato, citrus fruits remain the island’s most important export commodity, producing around 65,000 tons a year. While Paphos and Morphou have dabbled with commercial farming, the hub of citrus production is Limassol, thanks to the longstanding agricultural activity of Lanitis Farm Limited. “Cyprus is among the leading countries of the world for the best quality citrus fruit together with the USA, Israel and Spain”, says Evangelos Georgiou, General Manager of Lanitis Farm Limited. Its receiving markets include the major supermarkets of the United Kingdom, Germany, Austria, France, Italy, the Ukraine and Sweden.

Bearing Fruit

The grapefruit on the island is considered to be the best in the world as it has a higher juice content and according to scientists, is healthier for you too. “In a recent study comparing Cypriot grapefruit with that of Florida, it was revealed that our grapefruit have a higher amount of Vitamin C”, says Mr. Georgiou. In line with changing trends and eating habits, the traditional white-fleshed Marsh seedless type has been replaced with the red-fleshed Pink Grapefruit which has a distinctive sweetness. Cyprus is also renowned for its varieties of lemon that are uniquely thin-skinned, ideal for cooking and juicing. Among the different types of orange, it is the Valencia variety that is the most popular as it can withstand the high temperatures of summer. “Thanks to the endless sunshine, our oranges seem to have a greater aroma, a more distinctive taste and a more uniform appearance when harvested,” says Mr. Georgiou. Finally there are various types of mandarins and clementines - known as soft hybrids - totalling 11 per cent of the island’s citrus crop. Again, with the move towards easy-peeler fruit, Cypriot farmers have introduced Mandora and Minneola types. Introducing new varieties of fruit is far from straightforward as crops foreign to Cypriot terrain are fragile, requiring greater attention and care. “We often invest in foreign types of citrus fruit but it can take up to six years of testing and experimentation to find the right seeds that can withstand diseases and bacteria common to Cypriot farming”, says Mr. Georgiou.

Home Grown

It is common knowledge that citrus fruit is a staple ingredient of Cypriot cuisine - in fact, its population boasts the highest consumption rate of lemons in the world! However the connection to citrus fruit goes beyond that of culinary habits. With the farming process stretching from October to June, citrus production has dominated the daily routine of past generations. Upon independence in 1960, agriculture was the basis of the Cypriot economy and the introduction of irrigation systems allowed citrus crop production to flourish. During harvest time, farmers would leave their villages in droves and flock to the towns’ plantations to gather crops. Citrus groves spread along the coastal areas and until the 1980s, 75 per cent of its citrus production was shipped abroad and amounted to 169,000 tons in 1989.

With tourism, financial services and real estate dominating Cypriot economic activity, the agricultural sector has since become largely marginalised. This has also had a dramatic effect on production levels. “There was a time when Cyprus had nothing but crops to profit from and its people were synonymous with the land”, says Mr. Georgiou. “With the urbanisation of the major towns, the endemic drought and the general neglect of agriculture, citrus production is a thing of the past”. The high cost of maintenance coupled with the rise of fresh competition from countries such as Turkey, Morocco and Egypt has increased the challenges Cypriot farmers have to face. Nevertheless, Cypriot producers remain confident and judging by the taste of Cypriot lemon zest or freshly squeezed orange juice, it is well-worth battling out the obstacles